This guide provides a thorough overview of the disassembly of the EVA3, the preparation of the V-Core 3.1 frame, and the installation procedure for the Rat Rig toolhead Upgrade Kit.
The Rat Rig Toolheads are streamlined to be used specifically with our favourite combination:
Orbiter V2
Phaetus Rapido V2 UHF hot end
4028 part cooling fan
Rat Rig “SuperPinda” Probe by P&F

- Remove the M3x25 Cap Head Screw
- Remove the Hex Nut - M3
- Remove the M3 Nylon Locking Hex Nut
- Remove the M3x35 Cap Head Screw
- Remove the 40mm_fan_duct assembly as shown

- Remove the four M3x35 Cap Head Screws
- Remove the 4028 Part Cooling Fan from the printed part, it will be re-used on the Rat Rig Toolhead V1.0
- Remove the four Hex Nuts - M3
¶ Step 4 - Remove the X-axis endstop and Z-probe

- Remove the two M3x8 Cap Head Screws
- Disconnect the Endstop Module and set it aside, it will be re-used on the Rat Rig Toolhead V1.0
- Loosen the M3x8 Cap Head Screw
- Remove the Z-probe from the printed part, it will be re-used on the Rat Rig Toolhead V1.0
- Remove the three M3x8 Cap Head Screws

- Remove the four M3x20 Cap Head Screws
- Remove the ratrig_eva3_shroud Printed Part
- Remove the 4010 Axial Fan from the assembly, it will be re-used on the Rat Rig Toolhead V1.0
- Remove the four M3x8 Cap Head Screws

- Remove the four M3x8 Cap Head Screws
- Gently push the hotend assembly down and away from the toolhead-
- Rotate the hot end assembly into position as shown

- Remove the PTFE line
- Remove the four M2.5x8 Cap Head Screws
- Remove the Rapido hotend from the printed part, it will be re-used on the Rat Rig Toolhead V1.0
- Tip: Insert the four M2.5x8 Cap Head Screws back in the Rapido hotend mounting points to avoid losing them.

- Remove the two M3x25 screws on the face of the LGX Lite which secure the motor in place
- Remove the Bondtech LGX Lite motor from the back of the LGX Lite extruder
- Remove the three M3x12 Cap Head Screws

- Remove the two M3x8 Cap Head Screws
- Remove the extruder assembly
- The new Rat Rig toolhead uses the Orbiter V2,
- Remove the M3x8 Cap Head Screws holding the LGX Lite to the EVA3 drive_lgx_lite Printed Part
- Reassemble the LGX Lite so you can safely store it.

- Loosen the M5x40 Cap Head Screw
- Pull the belt to help remove the CoreXY belt grabber
- Remove the M5 nylon locking nut
- Remove the belt grabber from the toolhead
- Repeat the previous steps and remove the other CoreXY belt grabber

- Remove the two M3x8 Cap Head Screws
- Remove the belt front belt holder
- Repeat the previous steps for the other front belt holder

- Remove the two M3x35 Cap Head Screws
- Pull down on the EVA horn ducts

- Remove the two M3x35 Cap Head Screws
- Pull on the EVA3 front assembly to remove it
- Pull on the EVA3 back assembly to remove it
- Remove the four M3x8 Cap Head Screws
- Remove the EVA3 mgn12 mount
- Some components of the V-Core 3.1 need to be upgraded to support the new Rat Rig Toolhead. The following steps will show you how.
¶ Step 15 - Remove the rear cable holder and the Y endstop

- Locate the rear cable holder
- Remove the M6x12 Cap Head Screw
- Remove the electronics_wire_guide_rear printed part from the frame
- Remove the M6 3030 Drop in T-nut
- Locate the Y endstop mount
- Remove the two M3x12 Cap Head Screws
- Disconnect the Enstop Module and set it aside, it will be re-used on the Rat Rig Toolhead V1.0

- Remove the M5x12 Cap Head Screw
- Remove the Y_max_endstop_slider printed part
- Remove the M5x10 Cap Head Screw
- Remove the Y endstop_max_block printed part
- Remove the M5 3030 Drop in T-nut

- Remove the M5x18 Cap Head Screw
- Remove the EVA3 endstop block
- Avoid moving the machine around at this point, os the M5 Drop in T-nut doesn't slide around on the gantry extrusion.

- The V-Core 3.1 is now ready to receive the Rat Rig Toolhead V1.0 Upgrade kit
- The next steps will cover the assembly of the Rat Rig toolhead V1.0 upgrade kit

- Remove the M3x45 Cap Head Screws
- Remove the Stepper motor
- Remove the M5x40 Cap Head Screws

- Remove the three M6x14 Screws
- If the M6 Drop in T-nuts fall off, loosely thread them in the screws so you can easly reinstall the CoreXY motor cage top easily.
- Remove the CoreXY motor cage top
- Remove both of the old belts, then insert the two new ones following the same paths
- Reinstall the CoreXY motor cage top

- Tighten the three marked M6x14 screws to secure the CoreXY motor cage top to the frame
- Tighten the M5x40 screws to secure the bearing stacks into the CoreXY motor cage top
- Position the NEMA17 motor up and into the motor cage from below, it will be secured in the next step

- Insert the M3x35 screws into the xy_motor_cage_left_top as shown, and fasten them to secure the NEMA17 motor to the mount
- Check the alignment of the timing pulley, the belt should be on the middle of the pulley as shown
- Adjust the pulley up or down if required to make sure the belt is in the middle of the pulley
- Fasten both M3 grub screws to securely mount the timing pulley to the NEMA17 motor shaft
- Repeat Steps 21 - 24 for the other CoreXY motor mount cage.

- This step is not mandatory, it's just a Rat Rig tip on how to feed the belts on the idlers.
- Zip Tie
- The wider the zip tie is, the easier the process will be
- Bend the tip of the zip tie a little bit and feed it between the printed part and the idler, as shown
- Insert the belt between the zip tie and the idler
- Slowly feed the belt and pull the zip tie at the same time

- Take the loose end of the top CoreXY belt on the left hand side:
- Feed the belt behind the left xy_joiner
- Down and around the front xy_idler
- Around the front bearing stack on the left xy_joiner
- Take the loose end of the bottom CoreXY belt on the left hand side:
- Feed the belt around the rear bearing stack on the xy_joiner

- Take the loose end of the bottom CoreXY belt on the right hand side:
- Feed the belt behind the right xy_joiner
- Down and around the front xy_idler
- Around the front bearing stack on the right xy_joiner
- Take the loose end of the top CoreXY belt on the right hand side:
- Feed the belt around the rear bearing stack on the xy_joiner

- 3x M6x12 Cap Head Screw
- 2x M3x8 Cap Head screw
- 3x 3030 M6 Drop In T-nut
- Y endstop
- Y_endstop printed part
- Umbilical_frame printed part

- 2x M6x12 Cap Head Screw
- Install the M6 cap head screws into the printed part as shown.
- Umbilical_frame printed part
- 3030 M6 Drop In T-nut
- Loosely thread a 3030 M6 T-Nut onto the M6x12 screws. Do not tighten it at this point
- Make sure the printed part is on the middle of the rear extrusion.
- Tighten the M6x12 screw to secure the umbilical mount to the frame.

- M6x12 Cap Head Screw
- Y_endstop printed part
- 3030 M6 Drop In T-nut
- Loosely thread a 3030 M6 T-Nut onto the M6x12 screw. Do not tighten it at this point
- 2x M3x8 Cap Head Screw
- Y Endstop
- Tighten the M6x12 screws to secure the endstop mount.
- Ensure a 5mm gap between the 3030 extrusion and the Y_endstop printed part, this distance is required for the belts to operate smoothly.

- Rat Rig toolhead plate
- Rat Rig toolhead front printed part
- Insert the Rapido V2 into the printed part as shown, and make sure the cables are positioned in the designated slot.
- Look from above and see if all four holes line up correctly.
- All the holes on the plate, hotend and printed part should line up:
- If they align skip to step 35
- If they don't align follow the next steps

- If the cables of your Rapido 2 hotend don't align perfectly with the toolhead slot, please follow the next steps:
- Push down on the silicone sock to remove it
- Loosen the set screw on the heatsink
- Do not remove it completely to avoid losing it

- Remove the 2.5 Cap Head Screws from the hotend
- Carefully rotate the heatsink until the three screw holes align again.
- There isn't a way to tell how much you need to rotate you hotend, it might be just 120º or it might be 240º. It's a matter of trial and error.

- Insert the 2.5mm Cap Head Screws back in and tighten them.
- DO NOT overtighten the screws, they are only 2.5mm and will break if excessive force is applied.
- Tighten the set screw back in
- DO NOT overtighten the screw, if excessive force is applied the heatbreak will be permanently damaged.
- Put the socket back on
- Try to insert the hotend on the toolhead and see if the cables align with the designated slot, if not, repeat steps 32-34 and try a different angle in step 34
¶ Step 34 - Prepare the printed parts and heat inserts

- 21x Heat insert M3
- 2x Heat insert M4
- 1x rr_toolhead_vc3_duct printed part
- 1x rr_toolhead_vc3_front printed part
- 1x rr_toolhead_vc3_back printed part
- 1x rr_toolhead_vc3_umbilical printed part
- If you are not using a toolboard.

- 1x rr_toolhead_vc3_back printed part
- 8x Heat insert M3

- 1x Rat Rig toolhead_front printed part
- 7x Heat insert M3
- 2x Heat insert M4

- 1x Rat Rig toolhead_duct printed part
- 4x Heat insert M3

- 1x Rat Rig toolhead_umbilical printed part
- 2x Heat insert M3
- If you are not using a toolboard.

- 1x Rat Rig toolhead plate
- 4x M3x6 Countersink Screw

- Rat Rig toolhead plate
- 4x M3x6 Countersink Screw
- Tighten the M3x6 Countersink Screws to secure the plate to the carriage.
- Avoid using a ball end hex key, as they are more prone to damaging the sensitive M3 countersink screw head.
- After tightening of the screws, it is essential to verify that the X carriage retains its free movement. Excessive tightening of the screws may lead to the binding of the carriage.

- Rat Rig toolhead back assembly
- 1x 4028 Part Cooling Fan
- 2x M3x35 Countersink Screw
- Rat Rig toolhead duct assembly
- M3x8 Cap Head Screw
- 2x M3x16 Cap Head Screw

- Remove the four rubber spacers on the 4028 Part Cooling Fan

- Rat Rig toolhead back assembly
- Rat Rig toolhead duct assembly
- 2x M3x16 Cap Head Screw
- M3x8 Cap Head Screw

- Rat Rig toolhead rear assembly from the previous step.
- 4028 Part Cooling Fan
- 2x M3x35 Countersink Screw
- Tighten the M3x35 screws.
- Take care not to over tighten the M3x35 screws as you can damage the printed parts
- Avoid using a ball end hex key, as they are more prone to damaging the sensitive M3 countersink screw head.

- Rat Rig toolhead front assembly
- 2x M3x45 Countersink Screw
- 2x M3x35 Cap Head Screw
- 1x Rat Rig toolhead fan grille printed part
- 2x rr_vc3_toolhead_front_clamp
- 2x M4x10 Countersink Screw
- 1x X Endstop
- 2x M3x6 Cap Head Screw

- Rat Rig toolhead fan grille printed part
- 2x M3x35 Cap Head Screw
- Feed the M3x35 cap head screws through the grille, the aluminium plate and the 4028 fan, tightening them into the back printed part.
- Take care not to over tighten the screws as you can damage the printed parts

- Rat Rig toolhead front printed part
- 2x M3x45 Countersink Screw
- The M3x45 countersink screws must go through the holes on the front assembly and thread into the duct assembly.
- Take care not to over tighten the screws as you can damage the printed parts
- Avoid using a ball end hex key, as they are more prone to damaging the sensitive M3 countersink screw head.

- X Endstop
- 2x M3x6 Cap Head Screw
- Tighten the M3x6 screws to secure the X endstop to the toolhead.
- Take care not to over tighten the M3x8 screws as you can damage the printed parts.

- 2x rr_tolhead_vc3_belt_tensioner
- 2x M4x40 Cap Head Screw
- 2x M4 Heat Insert

- 2x rr_tolhead_vc3_belt_tensioner
- 2x M4 Heat Insert

- Make sure the belt is properly seated on all idlers and pulleys
- rr_tolhead_vc3_belt_tensioner assembly
- Insert the end of the belt inside the belt tensioner, and make sure the teeth are secured.
- Insert the tensioner assembly into the toolhead in the shown orientation.
- Tighten the M4x40 Cap Head just enough to hold the M4 Nylon Locking Hex Nut

- Repear Step 51 and install the top belt tensioner

- Remove the M3x40 countersink screw almost all the way.
- Form a small loop on the belt as shown.
- Insert the belt loop into the designated slot.
- Tighten the M3x40 countersink screw and make sure the belt goes around it, as shown in the picture.
- Pull all the excess belt.
- Cut the excess belt, ensuring the total length is enough to press it against the indent.

- Rat Rig toolhead front belt clamp
- Lever the belt clamp against the exposed screw section and place it inside the belt slot.
- 1x M4x10 Countersink Screw
- Tighten the M4x10 screw making sure the teeth of the belt clamp mesh with the belt
- Pay attention to seating the notch on the belt clamp on the exposed screw section. Pull on the belt to make sure it's secured properly.

- Repeat **Steps 53 and 54 **to attach the other belt
¶ Step 56 - Prepare the Rapido V2 and PTFE tube

- Phaetus Rapido V2 UHF Hotend
- 4x M2.5x6 Countersink Screw
- PTFE tube - 24.5mm

- Phaetus Rapido V2 UHF
- Place the Phaetus Rapido V2 UHF Hotend on the plate, making sure to route the cables through the designated slot
- 4x M2.5x6 Countersink Screw
- Tighten the M2.5x6 Countersink Screws to secure the hotend to the plate.
- Avoid using a ball end hex key, as they are more prone to damaging the sensitive M2.5 countersink screw head.
- PTFE tube - 24.5mm
- Insert the PTFE tube in to the marked hole and push it until it stops.

- Rat Rig toolhead_shourd printed part
- 140x10mm 24V Axial Fan
- 4x M3x16 Cap Head Screw
- Rat Rig SuperPinda Probe by P&F
- rr_tolhead_vc3_probe_mount
- 2x M3x8 Cap Head Screws

- 40x10mm 24V Axial Fan
- rr_toolhead_vc3_shroud printed part
- 4x M3x16 Cap Head Screw
- Insert the M3x16 screws into the Rat Rig toolhead shroud printed part, through the 40mm fan, and fasten them into the Rat Rig toolhead front
- Pay special attention to the fan airflow, it should blow the air towards the hot end heat sink. Most fans have a small arrow indicating the airflow.

- rr_tolhead_vc3_probe_mount
- Rat Rig SuperPinda Probe by P&F
- Insert the super pinda in the probe_mount
- 2x M3x8 Cap Head Screws
- thread the M3x8 screws to hold the assembly. Do not tighten them yet!
- Adjust the probe up to down as necessary to position the tip 1mm higher than the hot end nozzle
- Tighten the M3x8 Cap Head screws to secure the probe in place
- Do not over-tighten the screws, doing so can damage the probe or printed probe mount

- 1x LDO Orbiter V2
- 2x M3x8 Cap Head Screw

- LDO Orbiter V2
- 2x M3x8 Cap Head Screw
- Carefully align the extruder with the PTFE tube.
- Insert the M3x8 screws into the LDO Orbiter V2 and fasten them to the Rat Rig toolhead plate.
- Take care not to over tighten the M3x8 screws as you can strip the toolhead plate threads

- If you are assembling a toolboard, skip to Step 66
- Rat Rig toolhead umbilical assembly
- 2x M3x16 Cap Head Screw
- ADXL 345 Accelerometer
- 2x M3 Nylon washer
- 2x M3x8 Cap Head Screw

- Rat Rig toolhead umbilical assembly
- ADXL 345 Accelerometer
- 1x M3 Nylon washer
- 2x M3x8 Cap Head Screw
- Take care not to over tighten the M3x8 screws as you can damage the ADXL

- Rat Rig toolhead umbilical assembly
- 2x M3x16 Cap Head Screw
- Tighten the M3x16 screws to secure the umbilical assembly to the plate.
- Take care not to over tighten the M3x16 screws as you can damage the printed parts

- 4x Heat insert M3
- rr_toolhead_vc3_ebb42_vertical printed part
- BIGTREETECH EBB42 USB/CAN TOOLBOARD V1.2
- 2x M3x35 Cap Head Screw
- 5x M3x8 Cap Head Screw
- Hex standoff brass M3x20x4.5

- Rat Rig toolhead_vc3_ebb42_vertical
- 4x Heat insert M3

- Thread the hex standoff on to the LDO Orbiter V2 screws.
- Place the Rat Rig toolhead_vc3_ebb42_vertical assembly as shown
- Insert the M3x35 Cap Head Screws in to the printed part and thread them to the toolhead plate.

- M3x8 Cap Head Screw
- Insert the M3x8 Cap Head Scres in to the printed part and thread them to the hex standoff
- Take care not to over tighten the M3x8 screw as you can damage the printed parts

- BIGTREETECH EBB42 USB/CAN TOOLBOARD V1.2
- Insert the M3x8 Cap Head Screws into the toolboard and thread them into the vertical toolboard mount
- Take care not to over tighten the M3x8 screws as you can damage the printed parts and the toolboard
- Click here to follow the V-Core 3.1 Wiring guide and finish all the toolhead connections.
- If you are using a toolboard: Please note that the toolboard is not part of the standard configuration for the V-Core 3.1. However, you may find the V-Core 4 wiring guide helpful for reference. Keep in mind that there are differences between the two models, so the wiring guide should not be considered a direct, one-to-one comparison.